Rifugio Lagazuoi sits on the summit of Piccolo Lagazuoi at 2,752 metres, halfway between Cortina and Val Badia, and it's the highest and largest refuge in the Cortina area. Its name rests on its terrace, often called the most panoramic in the whole Dolomite range. From here you take in the Tofane, the Conturines, the Fanes peaks, the Odle and the Marmolada. Best of all, you get there with no effort: the cable car from Passo Falzarego takes only a few minutes and works for anyone, even people who don't do long walks.

But Lagazuoi is also a place of memory. The mountain is riddled with tunnels soldiers bored through the rock in the First World War, now open to explore along a demanding equipped trail that drops toward the pass. You'll need a torch, and the full traverse calls for care and the right gear. If you want to get the most out of the place, stay the night up here and watch the sunrise and sunset over the Dolomites. That's the real payoff, when the light changes the rock and the terrace is yours alone.

Frequently asked questions

How do you reach Rifugio Lagazuoi?

The simplest way is the cable car from Passo Falzarego, which reaches the 2,752-metre summit in a few minutes. Or you can walk up by trail, or, if you're experienced and equipped, through the war tunnels.

What are the Lagazuoi tunnels?

Tunnels drilled into the rock during the First World War, now restored and passable along an equipped trail that drops toward Passo Falzarego. A torch is essential and a via ferrata kit is wise: the traverse needs attention.