Arabba is a small mountain village above 1,600 metres, part of the municipality of Livinallongo del Col di Lana, in the Ladin heart of the Belluno Dolomites. It sits at a crossroads. The great passes fan out from here, the Pordoi, the Campolongo, and the Falzarego, and it's one of the four corners of the Sellaronda alongside Val Badia, Val Gardena, and Val di Fassa. The altitude keeps the snow reliably good and feeds some of the steepest, most technical runs in the whole Dolomiti Superski.
Over everything rises the Marmolada, the Queen of the Dolomites. At 3,343 metres on Punta Penia it's the highest peak in the group and the only one with a glacier, now shrinking fast and acting as a kind of gauge for climate change. The cable car climbs to Punta Rocca, above 3,200 metres, where a panoramic terrace looks out over a sea of summits. Arabba has built its whole identity around this mountain.
These valleys still carry deep marks from the First World War. The nearby Col di Lana was renamed Col di Sangue, the Blood Mountain, for how savage the fighting got, and the slopes of the Marmolada were a stage for warfare at altitude, leaving behind tunnels, gun emplacements, and the museum now at the Punta Serauta cable-car station. In summer the Viel del Pan trail gives you one of the finest views of the glacier, on an easy, well-loved path.

