Val Pusteria e Lago di Braies: what to see, do and where to stay

The Val Pusteria is a wide, luminous valley running from Bressanone to San Candido, predominantly German-speaking and strongly Tyrolean in character. For centuries it served as a transit corridor between the Tyrol and the Cadore region, and its villages preserve traditional architecture, frescoed churches, and a vibrant farming culture. The cycling trail that runs the entire length of the valley alongside the Rienza river has become an emblem of slow tourism in the Dolomites.

Its most celebrated jewel is Lago di Braies, set at the entrance to the Fanes-Senes-Braies Nature Park at around 1,496 metres. Its emerald-green waters, the historic hotel on the shore, and the rows of wooden rowing boats on the jetty have made it the Pearl of the Dolomites and one of the most widely shared images from the entire Alpine arc. The lake's popularity in recent years has grown so dramatically that access management measures have become necessary to protect it.

Around the valley a wealth of options opens up for every season. In summer the lake circuit and the Pusteria cycling trail are within anyone's reach, while in winter the basin freezes over and the slopes of Plan de Corones — one of South Tyrol's largest ski areas, complete with high-altitude museums — come into their own. To enjoy Braies without the crowds, aim for the first hours of the morning or the late afternoon, when the light is at its finest and silence returns to the shore.

When to go & weather — Val Pusteria e Lago di Braies

From May to October is the ideal time to walk the Lago di Braies circuit and cycle along the Pusteria trail from end to end. The water's emerald colour is most intense in June and July; autumn turns the larch-covered slopes gold. In winter the lake freezes over and the Plan de Corones ski slopes open. To escape the crowds at the lake, aim for the first hours of the morning or the late afternoon, when the light is best for photographs.

How to get there — Val Pusteria e Lago di Braies

The Val Pusteria is one of the few Dolomite valleys served by rail: the Pusteria line connects Fortezza to San Candido with stops at Brunico, Perca, Monguelfo, and Dobbiaco, and since 2010 Perca station has offered direct access to the Plan de Corones lifts. For Lago di Braies, alight at Monguelfo and take the bus up the Braies valley. By car, exit the A22 at Bressanone/Val Pusteria and head east on the state road. In summer, car access to the lake is regulated: from early July to mid-September, during peak hours, the Braies valley is reachable only by public transport, on foot, by bicycle, or with a parking reservation, making the train and bus often the best option.