Val di Fassa: what to see, do and where to stay

Val di Fassa follows the Avisio torrent through northern Trentino, with some of the best-loved massifs in the Dolomites on either side: the Catinaccio and its Gothic spires, the Sassolungo, the Sella, and at the far end the great bulk of the Marmolada. Seven towns sit one after another between 1,200 and 1,500 metres, from Moena, the so-called fairy of the Dolomites, up to Canazei and Campitello at the foot of the big passes. The valley has a warm, easygoing feel, where harsh rock sits next to soft meadows and busy little village centres.

It's the only valley in Trentino where Ladin is still in daily use, kept alive by the schools, the Istituto Culturale Ladino, and the Museum Ladin de Fascia in Vigo. And it's on these peaks that the legend of King Laurin and his rose garden is set. The story goes that the king, beaten in battle, cursed his roses so no one would ever see them again, by day or by night, and forgot the one hour of twilight. So the Catinaccio glows deep red as the sun goes down, the effect known as enrosadira.

In winter you ski the wide circuits of the Catinaccio and join the Sellaronda from Canazei and Campitello. In summer the valley turns into a base for via ferratas, trekking, and climbs toward the Torri del Vajolet and the Marmolada. There's a long spa tradition too, built around the mineral springs at Pozza, and a calendar packed with traditional festivals. The Fassans are proud of their cultural autonomy, and they've built the valley's name on tourism without letting it wipe out who they are.

When to go & weather — Val di Fassa

In winter, December to April, you ski the wide circuits of the Catinaccio and pick up the Sellaronda from Canazei and Campitello. In summer, June to September, it's via ferratas, trekking, and climbs toward the Marmolada and the Torri del Vajolet. The enrosadira, the red glow on the Catinaccio at sunset, is at its best on clear summer evenings. September brings cool air, still-green meadows, and traditional Ladin events like the transhumance re-enactments.

How to get there — Val di Fassa

From the north, come down from Val Gardena and Alta Badia over the Passo Sella, the Pordoi, or the Costalunga pass. From the south, climb up from Cavalese through the Val di Fiemme. On the A22, exit at Ora-Egna or Bolzano Sud and follow the Val d'Ega toward the Costalunga pass, past Lago di Carezza. The nearest rail station is Ora, linked to the valley by scheduled buses, and in season coaches and shuttles also run to Moena, Campitello, and Canazei. The valley spreads across seven towns between 1,200 and 1,500 metres, from Moena to Canazei.