The Viel del Pan is probably the finest spot from which to look the Marmolada in the eye. It runs along a grassy ridge at around 2,400 metres, on the sunny slope above Passo Pordoi and Passo Fedaia, keeping the glacier of the Queen in view the whole way. The name is Ladin and means road of bread: it was once the route flour merchants from the Belluno area used to reach the Val di Fassa over the crests, skipping the valley-floor roads. In the Ladin valleys they bartered flour for crafted goods and other products. In the early twentieth century the long-abandoned path was cleared by the German alpinist Karl Bindel, which is why it's also called the Bindelweg.
Today it's one of the best-loved walks in the Dolomites, and it's easy to see why: the going is almost flat, with modest ups and downs, and the whole time you've got the Marmolada and Lake Fedaia in front of you while the Sella group rises at your back. The classic section starts from Passo Pordoi, reaches the Viel del Pan refuge, and carries on toward Porta Vescovo or Fedaia. Having a hut or two along the way helps: you stop, take in the view over something warm, and move on. It's the perfect outing if you want a picture-book Dolomite walk with nothing technical about it.
Frequently asked questions
Is the Viel del Pan trail difficult?
No, it's mostly a scenic route with little elevation change and a near-constant altitude. It suits moderately fit hikers and families already at home walking in the mountains.
Where does the Viel del Pan trail begin?
The most classic start is Passo Pordoi. From there the trail runs along the ridge to the Viel del Pan refuge and carries on toward Passo Fedaia, with the Marmolada straight ahead the whole time.