The Cinque Torri offer dozens of climbing routes at every grade on solid Dolomitic rock, in a uniquely panoramic arena above Cortina d'Ampezzo.
They suit both first-timers with a qualified guide and experienced climbers, with the huge bonus of an extremely short approach from the nearby huts.
How to get there — Rifugio Scoiattoli (2.255 m)
The reference point is Rifugio Scoiattoli, at 2,255 m, at the foot of the Cinque Torri above Cortina d'Ampezzo. The quickest way there is the chairlift from Bai de Dones, on the Passo Falzarego road linking Cortina to Val Badia, which reaches the Scoiattoli in a handful of minutes. You can also walk up from the car parks on the Falzarego in about half an hour. The beauty of these routes is exactly that base served by the huts, which keeps the walk to the towers with your gear to a minimum.
The trailhead is in the Cortina d'Ampezzo area. Check the travel guide for lift schedules, parking and access rules.
Stage by stage
1. Approach from the huts
A few minutes' walk from Rifugio Scoiattoli brings you to the base of the towers.
2. Classic routes
Pick your route by grade, from the gentle introductory lines to the more challenging classics.
When to go & weather
The climbing season runs June to September, when the rock is dry and the lifts are open. The settled days of high summer give the best conditions, but climb early to get cool rock and be back down before the afternoon thunderstorms, common at altitude. At the start and end of the season the early hours can be cold, while the peak months are also the busiest on the classic routes, where you sometimes have to queue. Always avoid the wall when the rock is wet or right after a downpour. Damp dolomite is treacherous.
Recommended gear
- Harness, helmet and climbing shoes
- A set of quickdraws, slings and gear for building belays
- A single rope of a length suited to the routes you pick
- Cams and nuts for the trad lines, of which there are plenty here
- Layered clothing with a windproof shell for the altitude
- Water, food or cash for the stop at the nearby huts
Useful tips
- If you are a beginner, hire an alpine guide from Cortina. It is the safest way to start here
- Pick your routes by grade. At the Cinque Torri they range from the very easy to the extreme, so there is something for everyone
- Climb in the morning, with the rock still cool and the sky clear of thunderstorms
- Use the two huts, Scoiattoli and Cinque Torri, for the logistics and for a beer at the end of the day
- Leave time for the open-air Great War museum among the towers. It is worth the detour
Frequently asked questions
Can beginners climb at the Cinque Torri?
Yes, with a mountain guide: there are easy routes to start on. On your own, though, you need experience, the right gear and the ability to belay.
How many climbing routes are there at the Cinque Torri?
Dozens and dozens, of every grade, on compact, solid dolomite. They range from easy, short lines, ideal for starting out and for children, up to serious multi-pitch routes for the fit. It is one of the most complete high-altitude climbing grounds in the Dolomites.
How long is the approach to the Cinque Torri?
A few minutes. From the Rifugio Scoiattoli, reached by the chairlift from Bai de Dones, you are almost straight away at the base of the towers. It is exactly this tiny approach that makes them so popular with climbers.
Do you need experience to climb independently at the Cinque Torri?
Yes. To move without a guide you need experience, the right gear and a good command of belaying and managing anchors, including lowering-off. Anyone starting out is far better off with a mountain guide.