Lago di Sorapis: the hike to the turquoise lake from Passo Tre Croci

The milky turquoise of Lago di Sorapis comes from glacial rock flour: extremely fine rock dust that meltwater carries down from the Sorapis glacier and that stays suspended in the water, scattering the light. The colour changes with the season: it peaks between late June and early August, when the melting snowfields fill the basin, while by late summer the level drops and the lake can almost empty out.

No, swimming in Lago di Sorapis is banned by an ordinance of the municipality of Cortina d'Ampezzo, with fines for anyone who ignores it. The ban protects a fragile ecosystem: it is precisely the water's chemical and biological balance that creates the famous turquoise. The water is ice-cold all year anyway: enjoy the lake from the shore, without climbing over the barriers.

Yes, you can walk around the lake: it is a short loop along the shores, but one exposed rocky passage means using your hands for a few metres. If you would rather not, stay on the Rifugio Vandelli side, which has the best views anyway. Do not confuse it with the Giro del Sorapiss, the big loop around the massif that includes two via ferratas: a different undertaking altogether.

The best starting point is Passo Tre Croci (1,805 m), on the pass between Cortina d'Ampezzo and Misurina: from here trail 215 reaches the lake in about two hours, with the least climbing. The car parks at the pass fill up at dawn in high season, so consider the scheduled buses from Cortina or Misurina.

It is graded EE, for experienced hikers, with exposed sections secured with cables, ladders and metal rungs: it is not a via ferrata, but you need a sure foot and no fear of heights. The hardest passage comes about 1.5 km before Rifugio Vandelli. It is no place for pushchairs or young children, and avoid it when the ground is wet or icy.

Cortina's tourist office reckons on 4 hours of walking out and back on trail 215: about two hours to reach the lake from Passo Tre Croci and as long again to come back. In total it is 10.5 km with 434 metres of climbing, out and back on the same route.

Dogs are allowed on trail 215, but think carefully before bringing one: the path runs along exposed ledges, it is narrow and crowded, and on the metal ladders a dog has to be lifted and carried. With a large dog, or one not at ease on rock, choose another route; either way keep it on a short lead on the secured sections.

No, camping and bivouacking at Lago di Sorapis are forbidden: the lake lies in a protected natural area. If you want to sleep at altitude, Rifugio Vandelli, a short walk from the lake, offers overnight stays during its open season: book well ahead and check dates and availability on the hut's official channels.

In winter the hike to Lago di Sorapis is not recommended: trail 215 is covered in snow and ice, and the sections with cables and ladders become dangerous even for experienced hikers. The good window runs from late June to October; bear in mind that late in the season the water level drops a lot and the lake can look half empty.

You eat at Rifugio Vandelli, a few minutes' walk from the lake, open in the summer season: check dates and times on its official channels. Along trail 215 there are no other refreshment points and no fountains you can count on, so set off with enough water and something to eat in your pack.

Very: between late June and September trail 215 is one of the busiest in the Dolomites, and real queues form on the secured sections. Start at dawn from Passo Tre Croci: you will find parking, cross the exposed passages without a queue and see the lake in the best light before the bulk of the hikers arrives.