Ladin village of Fodom, whose tourist hamlet Arabba lies below the Sella, marked by the history of the Great War on the Col di Lana.
A short history
Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Fodom in Ladin, is a scattered municipality in the province of Belluno that stretches along the Cordevole stream, between the Pordoi Pass and the Falzarego Pass. The administrative centre is Pieve di Livinallongo, but the name tourists know is that of its most famous hamlet: Arabba, at the foot of the Sella.
Ladin is spoken here. The Fodom valley was once part of Tyrol and passed to Italy only after the First World War, like the other Ladin valleys. In the farmsteads and hamlets scattered across the slopes, the language, the place names and the old rural customs survive, mixed with more than a century of alpine tourism.
The Col di Lana, the mountain that gives the municipality its name, still bears the scars of the Great War. Between 1915 and 1916 its summit was the scene of brutal fighting between Italians and Austro-Hungarians. The Alpini dug a tunnel beneath the peak and on 17 April 1916 blew it up with a mine: the mountain is remembered as the Col di Sangue, the hill of blood, for its thousands of dead.
Today Arabba is famous for skiing. It is one of the four villages of the Sellaronda, together with Val Badia, Val Gardena and Val di Fassa. The Sellaronda loop, also called the Tour of the Four Passes, runs around the Sella massif for about 26 kilometres of slopes. It touches the Pordoi, Sella, Gardena and Campolongo passes and crosses three provinces: Belluno, Bolzano and Trento.
Skiing in Arabba began on the Porta Vescovo side. The first Arabba-Porta Vescovo cable car was inaugurated in 1971 and opened the era of the big lifts in the valley. Since then the village has become one of the most popular bases for skiing the whole Sella circuit in a single day.
How to fit Livinallongo del Col di Lana into a three, five or seven day trip: The Dolomites in 3, 5 or 7 Days: How to Plan Your Trip.
What to see
- The Pordoi Pass and the Sellaronda, above Arabba, the gateway to the great ski carousel around the Sella group.
- The High-Altitude Great War Museum, which tells the story of the Dolomite front and the battles fought on these mountains.
- The Col di Lana, with the remains of its trenches and walkways, a destination for historical hikes above Pieve di Livinallongo.
How to get to Livinallongo del Col di Lana
You reach it along State Road 48 of the Dolomites, which links the Pordoi Pass and the Falzarego Pass by way of Arabba and Pieve di Livinallongo. The nearest railway station is Calalzo di Cadore, from where you continue by bus. In summer and winter, scheduled coaches connect Arabba with the passes and the neighbouring valleys.
When to go
In winter Arabba is a much-loved base for skiing the Sellaronda, with reliable snow thanks to its altitude. In summer the valley is cool and green, good for hikes on the Col di Lana and towards the passes. Spring and autumn are quieter, with many lifts and mountain huts closed between one season and the next.
Frequently asked questions
Why is the Col di Lana famous?
Because it was one of the bloodiest fronts of the First World War in the Dolomites. In 1916 the Alpini blew up the summit with a mine dug beneath the Austro-Hungarian positions. For its many dead the mountain is remembered as the Col di Sangue, the hill of blood.
What is the link between Livinallongo and Arabba?
Arabba is the tourist hamlet of the municipality of Livinallongo del Col di Lana, the Ladin village of Fodom. The administrative centre is Pieve di Livinallongo, while Arabba, at the foot of the Sella, is the best-known spot for skiing and hiking.
How do you get to Arabba?
You climb along State Road 48 of the Dolomites, between the Pordoi Pass and the Falzarego Pass. The nearest station is Calalzo di Cadore, from where you continue on the scheduled buses that link Arabba with the passes and the neighbouring valleys.
What language is spoken in Livinallongo?
Ladin is spoken here. The Fodom valley was once part of Tyrol and passed to Italy only after the First World War. In the farmsteads and hamlets, the Ladin language, the place names and the old rural customs survive.
What is the Sellaronda?
It is the ski loop around the Sella group, also called the Tour of the Four Passes. It runs for about 26 kilometres of slopes touching the Pordoi, Sella, Gardena and Campolongo passes. Arabba is one of the four villages of the Sellaronda, along with Val Badia, Val Gardena and Val di Fassa.
How long have people skied in Arabba?
Modern skiing in Arabba began on the Porta Vescovo side. The first Arabba-Porta Vescovo cable car was inaugurated in 1971 and launched the valley's big lifts. Since then the village has been one of the handiest bases for skiing the whole Sella carousel.