Catinaccio is only the Italian name. In German it's Rosengarten, rose garden, and in Ladin Ciadenac: three ways of telling the story of the same massif that closes the eastern edge of Val di Fassa, on the border with Val d'Ega and Val di Tires. Its fame doesn't rest only on the verticality of its spires, but on what happens when the light drops. On clear evenings, and most strongly in summer and autumn, the rock turns pink and then a vivid red that lasts a few minutes before fading to grey. That's the enrosadira, a Ladin word that simply means to turn rose-coloured.
Behind that red glow sits one of the best-known legends of the Dolomites. King Laurino, ruler of the dwarves, kept a glorious rose garden on the Catinaccio. When his daughter Ladina was taken from him, he laid a curse so that no one could ever see his roses again, by day or by night. But in his rush he forgot dawn and dusk, and ever since, at those two moments, the garden burns back into colour. To see it you need nothing but your eyes. Good spots include Vigo di Fassa and Passo di Costalunga. If you want to get closer, take the gondola to Ciampedie and reach the refuges at the foot of the walls, where loop trails and via ferratas head into the heart of the group.
Frequently asked questions
What is the enrosadira of the Catinaccio?
It's the pink and red the Catinaccio walls take on at dawn and sunset, when low light strikes the dolomite rock. It lasts only a few minutes and is strongest on clear summer and autumn evenings.
Where is the best place to watch the Catinaccio at sunset?
Some of the easiest spots are Vigo di Fassa and Passo di Costalunga, plus the Ciampedie viewpoint you can reach by gondola from Vigo. A clear sky matters more than how high up you watch from.