Catinaccio is only the Italian name. In German it is Rosengarten — rose garden — and in Ladin Ciadenac: three different ways of telling the story of the same massif that closes the eastern edge of Val di Fassa, on the border with Val d'Ega and Val di Tires. Its fame rests not only on the verticality of its spires but on what happens when the light grows low. On clear evenings, and with greater intensity in summer and autumn, the rock turns pink and then a vivid red that lasts just a few minutes before fading to grey. This is the enrosadira — a Ladin word that means simply "to turn rose-coloured".
Behind that red glow lies one of the Dolomites' best-known legends. King Laurino, ruler of the dwarves, tended a magnificent rose garden on the Catinaccio. When his daughter Ladina was taken from him, he cast a curse so that no one could ever admire his roses again — neither by day nor by night. In his haste, however, he forgot dawn and dusk, and since then at those two moments the garden blazes back into colour. To witness it you need nothing more than your eyes: good vantage points include Vigo di Fassa and Passo di Costalunga. Those who want to draw closer can take the gondola to Ciampedie and reach the refuges at the foot of the walls, from which loop trails and via ferratas head into the heart of the group.
Frequently asked questions
What is the enrosadira of the Catinaccio?
It is the pink and red colour that the Catinaccio walls take on at dawn and sunset, when raking light strikes the dolomite rock. It lasts only a few minutes and is most intense on clear summer and autumn evenings.
Where is the best place to watch the Catinaccio at sunset?
Among the most convenient spots are Vigo di Fassa and Passo di Costalunga, as well as the Ciampedie viewpoint reachable by gondola from Vigo. The clarity of the sky matters more than the altitude from which you watch.