Capital of Val Gardena, home of Ladin woodcarving and gateway to Seceda and the Alpe di Siusi.
A short history
Ortisei, Urtijëi in Ladin, is the capital of Val Gardena and its liveliest town. It sits at 1,236 metres, where the valley widens, and it is a Ladin-speaking place with a history that weaves together farmers, craftsmen and, for over a century now, tourism.
Its fame in the world comes from wood. Since the 1600s Gardena families carved sacred statues, crucifixes and toys that travelling salesmen sold across half of Europe: the tradition of the Herrgottschnitzer made Ortisei a capital of wood sculpture, and you still find it today in the workshops and in the town museum.
With the arrival of Alpine tourism, between the 19th and 20th centuries, the town became one of the most elegant destinations in the Dolomites: a pedestrian centre, lifts climbing to Seceda and the Alpe di Siusi, a calendar full of events. But beneath the tourist gloss the Ladin identity holds on, in the language, in the festivals and in the mountain farmsteads on the slopes.
In 1872 the Austrian government funded a woodcarving school in Ortisei, driven by Ferdinand Demetz. It was a turning point: it raised the technical level of the carvers and turned carving from winter work into a real industry. By the late 1800s more than 70 percent of the valley's people lived off wood. Those who made sacred statues were the "chëi dai sanc", those who made toys the "snizleri".
Anyone wondering what to eat here finds Ladin and Tyrolean cooking: canederli dumplings, spinach-filled Schlutzkrapfen, venison goulash, barley soup and the smoked speck of South Tyrol. To finish, apple strudel or apple fritters.
How to fit Ortisei into a three, five or seven day trip: The Dolomites in 3, 5 or 7 Days: How to Plan Your Trip.
What to see
- The Seceda, the plateau with the spires of the Odle, a few minutes from the centre with the gondola and the funicular.
- The Alpe di Siusi, the largest high-altitude plateau in Europe, served by the gondola that leaves from the town.
- The pedestrian old town with its painted houses, the church of Sant'Ulrico and the Museo de Gherdëina, dedicated to woodcarving and to the archaeology of the valley.
How to get to Ortisei
By car you leave the A22 Brenner motorway at the Chiusa/Val Gardena exit and drive up the SS242 to Ortisei. The nearest railway station is Chiusa, on the Brenner line; from there and from Bolzano the Val Gardena scheduled buses climb up. The town has a pedestrian centre, with covered car parks at the edges of the built-up area.
When to go
The strong seasons are winter, for skiing and the lifts towards Seceda and the Alpe di Siusi, and summer, for hikes and high-altitude walks. In autumn the woods change colour and there are fewer crowds. Well-known events include the celebrations tied to Ladin culture and the Advent markets.
Frequently asked questions
What to see in Ortisei?
The landmark places are Seceda and the Alpe di Siusi, reachable by lift from the centre, the pedestrian town with the church of Sant'Ulrico and the Museo de Gherdëina, and the woodcarving workshops, a historic Val Gardena tradition.
How do you get to Ortisei?
By car you leave the A22 Brenner motorway at Chiusa/Val Gardena and drive up the valley. By train you arrive at Chiusa or Bolzano and continue with the scheduled buses that climb to Ortisei.
Why is Ortisei linked to woodcarving?
Since the 1600s Gardena families carved sacred statues, crucifixes and toys sold all over Europe. This tradition, that of the Herrgottschnitzer, made Ortisei a capital of wood sculpture. You still find it in the town's workshops and at the Museo de Gherdëina.
Is Ortisei good for people who don't ski?
Yes. The pedestrian centre with the church of Sant'Ulrico, the museum and the workshops can be visited all year. In summer the lifts towards Seceda and the Alpe di Siusi take you up for walks that can be easy too, with no need for skis.
Why is Ortisei famous?
For woodcarving. Since the 1600s Gardena families carved statues and toys sold across Europe, and in 1872 a carving school was founded here that made Ortisei a capital of the trade. By the late 1800s more than 70 percent of the valley lived off this work. The town is also the gateway to Seceda and the Alpe di Siusi.
What do you eat in Ortisei?
The cooking is Ladin and Tyrolean. You find canederli dumplings, spinach-filled Schlutzkrapfen, venison goulash, barley soup and the smoked speck of South Tyrol. For dessert, apple strudel or apple fritters.