People still remember Lago di Tovel as the red lake. Until 1964, in hot summers, its waters really did turn blood red with the bloom of a microscopic alga, Tovellia sanguinea, which coloured the most sheltered bay and drew the curious from half of Europe. Then the phenomenon stopped, almost certainly because of the drop in nutrients coming down from the high pastures, and the red never came back. What remains is still a spectacle: emerald green water, clear for several metres down, framed by scree and woodland, with the walls of the Brenta closing off the horizon.
The lake sits at 1,178 metres, at the far end of the Val di Tovel, a side valley climbing above the Val di Non, in the heart of the Adamello Brenta Nature Park. It is one of the largest natural lakes in Trentino and one of the most untouched: no bathing resorts, no motors, just a trail that circles it in a scant hour of easy walking, with little beaches of white pebbles where you can stop and watch the water change colour with the light.
Precisely to protect it, car access is restricted at the height of summer: when the car parks up the valley are full, the road closes and you go up on the Adamello Brenta Nature Park shuttle from the valley floor. It pays to arrive early in the morning, or simply take the bus and be done with it. Out of season, in autumn above all, the valley empties and the blazing beech trees around the lake give you what may be the finest days of the year.
On the shore you'll find the Casa del Parco Lago Rosso, a small visitor centre that tells the story of the alga and the valley's environment, perfect if you have kids along. The Val di Tovel is also bear country: the brown bear's return to Trentino came through these forests, and the panels along the trails explain how to behave. That's no reason to stay away, quite the opposite: it's the sign that you are walking in one of the wildest valleys in the Brenta Dolomites.
How Lago di Tovel compares with the other lakes, and what changes from one to the next: Lakes of the Dolomites: the most beautiful ones and how to visit them.
Frequently asked questions
Why was Lago di Tovel called the red lake?
Until 1964 the waters of Lago di Tovel turned red in summer with the bloom of a microscopic alga, Tovellia sanguinea. The phenomenon stained the lake's most sheltered bay and drew the curious from half of Europe, then it stopped, almost certainly because of the drop in nutrients coming down from the high pastures. The red never came back, but the Casa del Parco Lago Rosso on the lakeshore tells its story.
How big and how deep is Lago di Tovel?
Lago di Tovel is roughly triangular, about one kilometre long, up to 500 metres wide and around 38 metres at its deepest point. It sits at 1,178 metres and is one of the largest natural lakes in Trentino. Its basin was carved by glaciers and later enlarged by ancient landslides.
Can you swim in Lago di Tovel?
No, swimming in Lago di Tovel is not allowed: the lake is a protected environment inside the Adamello Brenta Nature Park. The water, which is largely spring-fed, stays freezing cold even at the height of summer anyway. You enjoy the lake from the little white-pebble beaches along the shore, which is also the best way to respect it.
How long does the lake loop take, and is it suitable for children?
The walk around Lago di Tovel takes about an hour at an easy pace, on a simple, well-marked trail with almost no climbing. It works well for children who are used to walking, with little beaches and viewpoints to stop at. There is, however, a narrow stretch with steps where a stroller won't get through: in that case stay on the southern shore, reached on the flat from the car park.
How does parking work at Lago di Tovel?
In summer car access to the Val di Tovel is restricted: spaces near the lake are limited and when they run out the road closes. It pays to arrive early in the morning or book a space in advance; check rates, access times and bookings on the official channels of the Adamello Brenta Nature Park.
Is there a shuttle bus to Lago di Tovel?
Yes, in summer an Adamello Brenta Park shuttle links the floor of the Val di Tovel to the lake when the road is closed to traffic. It is the easiest option on busy days: you park lower down and ride up without worries. Dates and timetables change from season to season, so check them on the park's official website.
Are there bears at Lago di Tovel?
Yes, the Val di Tovel is one of the brown bear's valleys in Trentino, but sightings along the tourist trails are rare: the bear is shy and avoids people. The park's panels along the paths explain how to behave: stay on the trail, never leave food around and keep your dog on a leash. It is no reason to stay away, it is the sign that you are walking in a genuinely wild valley.
Can you bring your dog to Lago di Tovel?
Yes, dogs are allowed at Lago di Tovel, always on a leash: you are inside a nature park and in a valley where bears roam. The lake loop is manageable for any dog, and the summer shuttle takes dogs too, with leash and muzzle. Remember to carry your rubbish back down, there are no bins in the park.
Where can you eat at Lago di Tovel?
On the lakeshore you'll find a couple of places to eat, including the historic Lago Rosso inn and restaurant and a chalet serving Trentino cuisine, a few minutes' walk from the car park. On summer weekends they get very busy, so it's best not to turn up right at lunchtime. Alternatively, the pebble beaches are perfect for a picnic.
When is the best time to visit Lago di Tovel?
The best period runs from June to September, when the road is open and the trails are free of snow. July and August are the most crowded months: arrive early in the morning or pick a weekday. If you are after quiet, late September and October give you a half-empty valley and the beech trees ablaze with autumn colour, perhaps the finest days of the year.
Can you visit Lago di Tovel in winter?
In winter the Val di Tovel road is closed, usually from December until spring, because of snow and avalanche risk. The lake can only be reached on foot or on snowshoes, with a walk of around ten kilometres from the closure point: an outing for fit walkers, rewarded by a completely silent valley. Check conditions on the park's channels before setting off.