Val di Zoldo e Civetta: what to see, do and where to stay

Val di Zoldo opens in the Belluno Dolomites, following the Maè torrent — a valley of genuine, popular character, far from fashionable tourism and proud of its roots. Life here was long shaped by hard work, emigration, and mountain traditions, and this has forged a community that is authentic and deeply attached to its land. It is the less polished, and perhaps truer, face of the Dolomites.

The landscape is dominated by two giants: the immense north-western face of Monte Civetta — brushing 3,220 metres and considered one of the greatest walls in the entire Alps, nicknamed "the wall of walls" — and the unmistakable bulk of the Pelmo, which the people of Zoldo call the caregón del Padreterno, the Almighty's armchair. This amphitheatre of rock, crossed by the Alta Via 1 long-distance route running from Braies to Belluno, is a magnet for hikers and climbers.

The valley is world-famous for its ice-cream makers. From the mid-nineteenth century, when traditional ironworking declined, many Zoldani set off to seek their fortune and carried the art of artisan gelato first across Italy and then throughout Europe — from Germany to Austria and the Netherlands. The valley guards this heritage with pride. In summer, trails lead to Lago di Coldai and along the base of the Civetta; in winter, skiing is available in the local area in an atmosphere that is uncrowded and genuinely local.

When to go & weather — Val di Zoldo e Civetta

Summer, from June to September, is the ideal season for hiking around the Civetta and Pelmo and for sections of the Alta Via 1, with Lago di Coldai at over 2,100 metres among the most evocative destinations. Winter, from December to March, brings skiing in the Civetta ski area and an authentic, uncrowded atmosphere. July and August offer the most stable conditions at altitude, while autumn colours the forests and reveals razor-sharp views of the great Civetta wall.

How to get there — Val di Zoldo e Civetta

Val di Zoldo is reached by driving up from Longarone along the road that follows the Maè torrent through the narrow Pontesei lake gorge, or by descending from the Staulanza pass (1,770 m), which connects it to the Cadore and Selva di Cadore. Drivers on the A27 exit at Longarone-Zoldo and follow the state road into the valley. The nearest rail station is Longarone-Zoldo-Castellavazzo, connected to the valley villages by scheduled buses. A car remains useful for reaching the mountain passes and the trailheads around the Civetta and Pelmo.