The heart of Val di Zoldo, home of the emigrant ice cream makers and a base for the Pelmo and the Civetta.
A short history
Forno di Zoldo sits at 848 metres, where the Maè valley widens among the woods. It is the main village of Val di Zoldo, a cluster of stone and timber houses caught between the Pelmo and the Civetta. Since 2016 it has been part of the municipality of Val di Zoldo, born from the merger with Zoldo Alto.
Its history speaks of iron and ice cream. For centuries the forges worked iron mined from the mountains, and the village name itself recalls the smelting furnaces. When the mines closed, the men of Zoldo left for Europe to sell ice cream. From here grew a school of ice cream makers famous around the world, which the valley still celebrates and tells in its museums.
Today Forno is the base for climbing to the great peaks. From here the roads run toward the Staulanza Pass and the trails at the foot of the Pelmo, the mountain the old folk called the Throne of the Almighty. In winter the Ski Civetta lifts link the valley to one of the widest ski carousels in the Dolomites.
The ice cream makers began leaving in the late nineteenth century. With their carts the people of Zoldo sold ice cream through the streets of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. They were among the first to take ice cream out of noble kitchens and turn it into food for everyone. The memory of those years is gathered just down the valley, in Longarone, which since 1959 has hosted the International Artisan Ice Cream Fair every year, born as a meeting point for the makers returning from abroad.
The cooking of Zoldo tells the same mountain story. The signature dish is pastin, a mix of minced pork, salted and spiced, served grilled with polenta or raw on bread. In the mountain dairies they make formai frit, crisp outside and soft within, and casonziei, pumpkin dumplings dressed with melted butter and smoked ricotta.
How to fit Forno di Zoldo into a three, five or seven day trip: The Dolomites in 3, 5 or 7 Days: How to Plan Your Trip.
What to see
- The villages and ice cream museums of Zoldo, which tell the story of the emigrant ice cream makers among the old houses of the valley.
- Monte Pelmo, the Throne of the Almighty, which dominates the valley with its throne-shaped profile.
- The Staulanza Pass, a crossing between Val di Zoldo and Val Fiorentina, a starting point for the trails at the foot of the Pelmo and the Civetta.
How to get to Forno di Zoldo
By car, leave the A27 at Belluno or Longarone and climb Val di Zoldo along the Maè road. The nearest railway station is Belluno, from which line buses run into the valley. From Forno the same road climbs to the Staulanza Pass, toward Selva di Cadore.
When to go
Summer is the ideal season for hikes at the foot of the Pelmo and the Civetta, with trails free of snow. In winter the Ski Civetta lifts make the village a handy base for skiing. Spring and autumn are quiet, with coloured woods and few tourists.
Frequently asked questions
Why is Forno di Zoldo famous for ice cream?
Because generations of ice cream makers set out from Val di Zoldo and opened gelaterie across Europe. The tradition is told in the valley's ice cream museums and celebrated each year with festivals dedicated to the Zoldo master makers.
How do you get to Forno di Zoldo?
By car, leave the A27 at Belluno or Longarone and climb Val di Zoldo along the Maè road. The same road leads to the Staulanza Pass, toward Selva di Cadore and Val Fiorentina.
What can you do in Forno di Zoldo in summer?
In summer Forno is the base for hikes at the foot of the Pelmo and the Civetta. From the Staulanza Pass the trails set out toward the great peaks, while in the village you can visit the museums that tell the story of the Zoldo ice cream makers.
Can you ski at Forno di Zoldo?
Yes, in winter the village is linked to the Ski Civetta area, one of the widest ski carousels in the Dolomites. The lifts join Val di Zoldo to Alleghe and to Val Fiorentina.
Where can you see the ice cream fair near Forno di Zoldo?
The International Artisan Ice Cream Fair is held in Longarone, at the mouth of Val di Zoldo. It began in 1959 as a gathering of makers returning from abroad and is now one of the best known trade fairs in Europe. It usually takes place between late November and early December.
What typical food is there in Forno di Zoldo?
The signature dish is pastin, minced and spiced pork served grilled with polenta or raw on bread. Also worth trying are formai frit, the fried cheese, and casonziei, pumpkin dumplings with melted butter and smoked ricotta. And of course the ice cream, the valley's own tradition.