The Viel del Pan (the ancient "bread road" of smugglers) is an almost level trail running along the ridge between Passo Pordoi and Passo Fedaia, with the Marmolada and its glacier facing you the whole way.
It is an easy and spectacular itinerary, perfect for families and for anyone who wants big mountain scenery without big effort.
How to get there — Passo Pordoi (2.239 m)
The trail starts from Passo Pordoi, at 2,239 m, one of the highest and most famous passes in the Dolomites, between Arabba and Canazei. Arrive along the pass roads climbing from Arabba or Canazei, with large car parks near the pass, charged in high season. From the pass the start of the Viel del Pan, waymarked 601 and part of the Alta Via delle Dolomiti no. 2, climbs gently towards Rifugio Fredarola and then runs almost level along the hillside. If you wish, you can round off the day with the Sass Pordoi cable car, which takes you to the summit plateau and offers a view from above over the Sella Group.
The trailhead is in the Arabba e Marmolada area. Check the travel guide for lift schedules, parking and access rules.
Stage by stage
1. From Passo Pordoi to Rifugio Viel del Pan
Follow the hillside path with a constant view of the Marmolada to Rifugio Viel del Pan.
2. Towards Lago di Fedaia
Continue gently until you look down onto Lago di Fedaia at the foot of the Queen of the Dolomites.
When to go & weather
The best period runs from June to October, when the hillside is clear of snow and walkable by anyone. It is an easy (E) and almost level route, suitable all summer, but the views of the Marmolada are clearest on bright mornings. September and October bring out the golden larches and fewer crowds, while in the height of August Rifugio Viel del Pan and the ridge can be very busy. Even on an easy trail at over 2,400 m the wind is at home, so a windproof shell in your rucksack never goes amiss.
Recommended gear
- Trekking or hiking shoes with a reliable sole
- Windproof jacket, because the wind often blows along the ridge
- Water and snacks for the 2-3 hours of walking
- Hat, sunglasses and sun cream for the open stretches
- Camera for the Marmolada walking ahead of you
Useful tips
- Stop at Rifugio Viel del Pan (2,432 m) for a plate of Ladin cuisine with the Queen of the Dolomites in front of you
- Keep children on the inside on the ridge sections with mild exposure
- Continue to the viewpoint over Lago di Fedaia to complete the panorama of the Marmolada
- Consider a return by shuttle bus or lift if you do not want to retrace the same trail
- Go early in the morning to catch the best light on the Marmolada glacier
- Allow a couple of extra hours if you aim to descend all the way to Passo Fedaia
Frequently asked questions
Is the Viel del Pan suitable for children?
Yes — it is one of the easiest panoramic trails in the Dolomites, nearly flat throughout. Take care on the slightly exposed ridge sections.