The Viel del Pan (the old smugglers' "bread road") is an almost level trail along the ridge between Passo Pordoi and Passo Fedaia, with the Marmolada and its glacier facing you the whole way.
It is easy and spectacular, perfect for families and for anyone who wants big mountain scenery without big effort.
How to get there — Passo Pordoi (2.239 m)
The trail starts from Passo Pordoi, at 2,239 m, one of the highest and most famous passes in the Dolomites, between Arabba and Canazei. Arrive on the pass roads that climb from Arabba or Canazei, with large car parks near the pass, charged in high season. From the pass the start of the Viel del Pan, waymarked 601 and part of the Alta Via delle Dolomiti no. 2, climbs gently towards Rifugio Fredarola, then runs almost level along the hillside. If you like, round off the day with the Sass Pordoi cable car, which takes you to the summit plateau for a view from above over the Sella Group.
The trailhead is in the Arabba e Marmolada area. Check the travel guide for lift schedules, parking and access rules.
Stage by stage
1. From Passo Pordoi to Rifugio Viel del Pan
Follow the hillside path with a constant view of the Marmolada to Rifugio Viel del Pan.
2. Towards Lago di Fedaia
Carry on gently until you look down onto Lago di Fedaia at the foot of the Queen of the Dolomites.
When to go & weather
June to October is best, once the hillside is clear of snow and walkable by anyone. It is an easy (E) and almost level route, fine all summer, but the views of the Marmolada are clearest on bright mornings. September and October bring out the golden larches and thin the crowds, while at the height of August Rifugio Viel del Pan and the ridge get very busy. Even on an easy trail above 2,400 m the wind is at home, so a windproof shell in your rucksack never goes amiss.
Recommended gear
- Trekking or hiking shoes with a reliable sole
- Windproof jacket, because the wind often blows along the ridge
- Water and snacks for the 2-3 hours of walking
- Hat, sunglasses and sun cream for the open stretches
- Camera for the Marmolada walking ahead of you
Useful tips
- Stop at Rifugio Viel del Pan (2,432 m) for a plate of Ladin food with the Queen of the Dolomites in front of you
- Keep children on the inside on the ridge sections with mild exposure
- Carry on to the viewpoint over Lago di Fedaia to round off the Marmolada panorama
- Think about returning by shuttle bus or lift if you do not want to walk back the same way
- Go early in the morning for the best light on the Marmolada glacier
- Allow a couple of extra hours if you plan to drop all the way to Passo Fedaia
Frequently asked questions
Is the Viel del Pan suitable for children?
Yes, it is one of the easiest paths in the Dolomites, almost flat the whole way. Just watch the ridge sections, where there is a bit of exposure.
Where does the name Viel del Pan come from?
It means "bread road" in Ladin and refers to the old mid-slope route used to carry grain, often smuggled. In German it is called Bindelweg, and today it is one of the most loved scenic paths in the Dolomites.
Is the Viel del Pan path a loop?
No, it is a mid-slope path that runs along the ridge from Passo Pordoi to the Passo Fedaia area, so it does not close into a loop. Many people walk it there and back as far as Rifugio Viel del Pan, or combine it with shuttles or lifts for the return.
Can you walk the Viel del Pan with a pushchair?
Even though it is almost flat, the surface is still mountain terrain, with stones and rough sections that do not suit a normal pushchair. For younger children a child-carrier backpack is a much better choice.