A Ladin village at the mouth of the Fanes-Sennes-Braies Nature Park, with the Kronplatz on one side and the plateau of the legends on the other.
A short history
San Vigilio di Marebbe, Al Plan de Mareo in Ladin and St. Vigil in Enneberg in German, sits at 1,201 metres in a side valley of the Val Badia. It is a Ladin village, and here the language is not a folk relic: it is spoken at home, at school and in the offices, and the signs are in three languages.
Its position is unusual, because it faces in two opposite directions. On one side is the Kronplatz, the mountain of lifts that in winter is one of the largest ski areas in South Tyrol. On the other opens the Fanes-Sennes-Braies Nature Park, where there are no lifts and there will not be any.
Above the village lies the Fanes plateau, which in Ladin tradition is the home of the Kingdom of Fanes: a cycle of legends with a princess, the marmots as an allied people and a kingdom that sinks into the ground. It is the most structured mythology in the Alps, and it is not brochure material: it was collected and written down in the late nineteenth century, when it was still passed on by voice.
For walkers, San Vigilio is the southern gate of the park. From here you climb to the Fanes lakes and the huts on the plateau, and reach the waterfalls that drop towards the valley. It is a less used access than the one from Braies, and those who know it use it for exactly that reason.
How to fit San Vigilio di Marebbe into a three, five or seven day trip: The Dolomites in 3, 5 or 7 Days: How to Plan Your Trip.
What to see
- The Fanes plateau and lakes, the heart of the nature park, where Ladin legend places the Kingdom of Fanes.
- The Fanes waterfalls, reached on a short walk from the valley floor.
- The Kronplatz, the lift mountain above the village, and the pastures of Le dla Creda inside the park.
How to get to San Vigilio di Marebbe
Leave the Brenner motorway at Bressanone, drive up the Val Pusteria to San Lorenzo di Sebato, then take the road climbing to San Vigilio. By train you arrive at Brunico on the Pusteria line and continue by scheduled bus. From San Vigilio the road into the park is closed to private traffic beyond a certain point: you continue on foot, by bike or on the shuttle.
When to go
Summer is the park's season, with the trails towards Fanes open from June to October and the alpine dairies working. Winter belongs to the Kronplatz, with its lifts and pistes. September is the best month for the plateau: the days are still long, the herds come down and the light on the pastures is the good one.
Frequently asked questions
What to see in San Vigilio di Marebbe?
The Fanes plateau and lakes inside the Fanes-Sennes-Braies Nature Park, the Fanes waterfalls reached on a short walk, and the Kronplatz with its lifts. The village is Ladin and you still hear the language in daily life.
How do you get to San Vigilio di Marebbe?
Leave the Brenner motorway at Bressanone, drive up the Val Pusteria to San Lorenzo di Sebato and climb to San Vigilio. By train you arrive at Brunico and continue by scheduled bus.
What is the Kingdom of Fanes?
It is the cycle of Ladin legends set on the Fanes plateau above the village: a princess, the marmots as an allied people and a kingdom that sinks into the ground. It is the most structured mythology in the Alps, collected and written down in the late nineteenth century when it was still passed on by voice.
Can you drive up to Fanes?
Not all the way. From San Vigilio the road into the park is closed to private traffic beyond a certain point: you continue on foot, by bike or on the shuttle. It is one of the reasons the plateau stays less crowded than other parts of the Dolomites.
Better in summer or winter?
It depends what you are after. In summer the village is the southern gate of the nature park, with the trails towards Fanes open from June to October. In winter it is the Kronplatz side, one of the largest ski areas in South Tyrol. September is the best month for the plateau.