In the Dolomites the water never sits still. It runs down from the glaciers, threads through the gorges and at some point leaps into the void. The result is waterfalls worth a trip on their own: some you reach in ten minutes from the car park, others you earn with a walk through the woods. Either way, the sound you hear before you even see them says it all.
The best known are three. The Serrai di Sottoguda at the foot of the Marmolada, with the Franzei fall that turns into a wall of ice in winter. The Fanes waterfalls near Cortina, hidden inside the nature park. And the Sappada falls, a corridor of rock where the water makes one leap after another, a stone's throw from where the Piave is born.
In this guide I'll tell you where they are, how to get there, when the water runs highest and which ones suit children. You'll also find the link between the waterfalls and ice climbing, which is very much at home here. If you first want a wider picture, start with the guide on what to see in the Dolomites.
The Serrai di Sottoguda and the Franzei fall
The Serrai di Sottoguda are a natural gorge carved by the Pettorina stream, at the foot of the Marmolada. The canyon runs for about two and a half kilometres between the village of Sottoguda and Malga Ciapela, with towering rock walls and points where it narrows to just a few metres. You walk along the bottom of the gorge, the water beside you and the rock closing in overhead.
Inside the Serrai drops the Franzei fall, a leap of water of about 110 metres down the wall. It's the tallest in the area and, in winter, the one that freezes and becomes a target for ice climbers. Along the way you also pass a small church and a statue of the Madonna set in a natural cave.
One thing to know before you set off: after the Vaia storm of 2018, access to the gorge has been subject to restrictions for safety reasons. Before you go it's worth checking whether the route is open and what the entry rules are with the tourist office or the local consortium, because conditions change from season to season.
The Fanes waterfalls, among the finest in the Alps
The Fanes waterfalls sit in the Ampezzo Dolomites Nature Park, just north of Cortina. They are two drops, an upper and a lower fall, that the water makes inside an amphitheatre of pale rock ringed by woodland. The walk to reach them is already half the outing, among firs and glimpses of the Tofane.
The handiest starting point is from Cortina. You head towards Dobbiaco, pass the Fiames area and park for free near the Ponte Felizon, at the entrance to the park. From there an easy trail reaches the lower fall in no time, while the upper one asks for a bit more climbing. In summer the car park fills early, so it's better to arrive in the morning.
The Fanes can also be reached from the South Tyrolean side, setting off from San Vigilio di Marebbe towards Pederü. The right window runs from June to November, when the trails are clear of snow. It's one of the best-loved water outings in the area and, on the right day, the view pays back the walk.
The Sappada falls and the springs of the Piave
The Sappada waterfalls, also known as the Cascatelle del Mühlbach or the Rio del Mulino falls, are a stone's throw from the centre of the village. The water drops through a narrow, steep corridor of rock, with a final leap of some twenty metres and many smaller falls along the way. The trail is short, in the shade of the gorge, and fitted with little bridges and ladders that make it suitable for almost everyone.
A little higher up, in Val Sesis, the springs of the Piave rise. The water flows out on the slopes of Monte Peralba, at around 1,830 metres, and gathers in a stone fountain with the inscription 'Here the Piave is born'. The river dear to Italian history starts right here, in a quiet mountain corner reached by an easy walk.
Sappada is a good base for combining several things in one day: the little falls in the morning, the springs in the afternoon, with the village and its hamlets in between. It's a border area between Veneto and Friuli, more low-key than the valleys around the Sella, and for that very reason it appeals to anyone after fewer crowds.
When to go: the thaw and peak flow
The waterfalls of the Dolomites have their best moment with the thaw. Between spring and early summer, when the snow that gathered up high melts, the streams swell and the falls reach peak flow. It's the period when the waterfalls make the most noise and the most show, usually between May and early July depending on the year and the altitude.
In high summer the flow drops a little, but the waterfalls stay fine and the trails are all open and easy. In autumn the water falls further, yet the woods around change colour and give a different frame. After heavy rain, in any season, the falls swell again quickly: those are the days when they give the most.
A practical tip: after days of heavy rain, check the state of the trails before setting off, because in the narrow gorges the water rises fast and some stretches can close for safety. The shoulder seasons, with plenty of water and few people, are often the best compromise.
Frozen falls and ice climbing at Sottoguda
In winter the story changes completely. The cold locks the water and the falls that come down the walls of the Serrai turn into columns of ice. The Sottoguda gorge is one of the best-known spots in Europe for ice climbing, with routes of every grade a few minutes' walk from the entrance.
The canyon works like a natural gym. There's terrain for those taking their first steps with ice axes and crampons, followed by a guide, and there are harder lines for anyone with experience already. The Franzei fall, with its leaps, is among the objectives climbers keep an eye on when the freeze is just right.
If the idea of walking among the frozen falls appeals even just as a spectator, take a look at the frozen falls of Sottoguda. Real climbing calls for proper gear and, if you have no experience, the support of a mountain guide: the ice is fine but it demands respect.
Waterfalls that suit families
Not every waterfall asks for fit legs. The Sappada little falls are the simplest choice with children: the trail is short, in the shade, and the bridges and ladders turn the walk almost into a game. The water leaping from rock to rock keeps the youngest glued to it.
The lower Fanes fall is within reach of families too, starting from the park car park near Cortina. The stretch to the first drop is short and small children handle it without trouble. For the upper fall, though, you need a bit more walking and care, so weigh up the children's age before extending the loop.
In general, with children it's best to go for the short, equipped trails, avoid the days of high water after heavy rain and bring shoes with a good sole, because near the water the rocks are often wet and slippery. With these precautions a waterfall outing becomes the most fun part of the holiday.
How to get there, in brief
The three destinations sit in different areas of the Dolomites, so it's best to choose them by where you're staying. The Serrai di Sottoguda are at the foot of the Marmolada; you reach Sottoguda by car through Rocca Pietore, along the road that climbs towards Malga Ciapela and the Fedaia pass.
The Fanes waterfalls have two gateways. From Cortina you head towards Dobbiaco and park near the Ponte Felizon, at the mouth of the Ampezzo Dolomites Park. From the South Tyrolean side you set off from San Vigilio di Marebbe towards Pederü, with the last stretch subject to a toll.
The Sappada falls are the easiest to reach: you get to Sappada by car and the little falls start near the centre, while the springs of the Piave lie a little higher up, in Val Sesis. Wherever you go, check car parks and openings for your chosen period, because in high season the spaces run out early.
Frequently asked questions
What are the finest waterfalls in the Dolomites?
Among the best known are the Serrai di Sottoguda with the Franzei fall, about 110 metres tall, at the foot of the Marmolada; the Fanes waterfalls near Cortina, in the Ampezzo Dolomites Park; and the Sappada falls, or Cascatelle del Mühlbach, with a final drop of some twenty metres and the nearby springs of the Piave. They are three very different destinations, suited to different tastes and legs.
When should you go to see the waterfalls?
The best moment is with the thaw, between spring and early summer, generally from May to early July, when the snow melts and the streams reach peak flow. In summer the water drops a little but the trails are all open. After heavy rain the falls swell again quickly, in any season.
Are the Dolomite waterfalls suitable for families?
Yes, several are. The Sappada little falls have a short trail fitted with bridges and ladders, perfect with children. The lower Fanes fall too is reached by a short walk from the park car park near Cortina. It's best to avoid the days of high water after heavy rain and to wear shoes with a good sole, because the rocks near the water are slippery.
Can you see frozen waterfalls?
Yes, in winter. In the Serrai di Sottoguda gorge the falls that come down the walls freeze and turn into columns of ice. It's one of the best-known spots in Europe for ice climbing, with routes of every grade a few minutes from the entrance. Climbing calls for proper gear and, without experience, the support of a mountain guide.
How do you get to the Fanes waterfalls?
There are two starting points. From Cortina you head towards Dobbiaco, pass Fiames and park for free near the Ponte Felizon, at the entrance to the Ampezzo Dolomites Park, from where an easy trail reaches the lower fall. Alternatively you set off from San Vigilio di Marebbe towards Pederü, on the South Tyrolean side. The recommended window runs from June to November.
Where are the Sappada waterfalls?
The Cascatelle del Mühlbach, or Rio del Mulino falls, are a stone's throw from the centre of Sappada, on the border between Veneto and Friuli, inside a corridor of rock reached by a short equipped trail. A little higher up, in Val Sesis, on the slopes of Monte Peralba at around 1,830 metres, the springs of the Piave rise.